Creating a Built-in Hutch – Kitchen Entry Makeover Day 3

After building and installing the base Entry Cabinet, I took a hard look at the overall area.  I decided to tear out the planks on the side walls and create a built-in hutch out of the cabinets I’d already built and installed.

I left the planks on the back wall as that will appear to be the back of my built-in hutch.  All the other planks got pulled out.  I’m really glad I didn’t use any adhesive when originally installing these!

I’d never been quite happy with this decorative header I put in over the new door.  I put it there because I needed a logical termination point for the planks I installed.  Since I’m tearing out the planks, I don’t need this giant header anymore –so it’s coming out too.

I had to remove more of the door trim to get the header out.  It’s all good and well though because it’ll be easier to skim coat with that gone anyway.

I had removed some of the planks on the back wall in order to build the new, taller cabinet.  I now had to replace one of these boards to make the plank wall come down to the countertop.  Because of the tongue and groove, I couldn’t get the new board IN without pulling another plank out first (breaking the end in the process).

I nailed those two planks in place and glued the broken piece back in.  There’s always putty.  No biggie.

I cut boards that had to be sized exactly — to fit between the upper and lower cabinets.  These will be the sides of the hutch.  This is a very bassackwardly way to build a built-in hutch but it’s happening!

Creating a Built-in Hutch

But wait.  Since I’m making this a drop zone, most likely we will want an outlet here.  

Luckily there is an outlet on the other side of this wall so I can easily tap in and get power to my new hutch.  I used a drywall cutting bit on my oscillating tool so I could cut the drywall without nicking the wires that are in the wall.

I opened up a large hole to access the existing outlet and determine where my new junction box could go.  I had no idea where the wires were running in the wall.  Also, notice I cut the drywall out right down the center of the two studs.  Makes for easy patching when the time comes.

I ran a length of Romex into the existing junction box but didn’t do any wiring at this time.

With my new junction box location determined, I replaced the drywall piece I had just cut out.  Four screws — one in each corner is all it took because the drywall sat on studs on each side.  See how planning your cut can make patching easy?  😉

I taped the seams and put on a coat of mud and got back to building my hutch.

I secured a couple pieces of scrap wood to the wall to sit behind the hutch side because it needs to be pushed in 3/4″ from the wall.  

Then I screwed the hutch side to the scrap wood.

The space on the side (and the scrap wood) will be covered by faceframe.

I attached 1×2 faceframe, lining it up with the existing faceframe on the upper cabinets. 

I used a level to make sure this jury rigged faceframe was plumb.  There is a wide gap on the outside of the whole faceframe now because I tore out that 3/4″ thick planking.  I need to cover that, which could be done in a number of ways.

Add an additional 1×2, leaving a 1/2″ reveal of the existing faceframe is how I decided to roll.

I used a block of wood with a 1/2″ mark to make sure the reveal was consistent and secured the wood with caulk and nails

I added this double layer faceframe under the countertop on the bottom cabinets too.

Then I filled all the nail holes, sanded and painted.

It’s definitely taking me more than one day but I added an electrical outlet and tore out the door headers …so now the “kitchen entry” walls extend down the hall.  SO I really have to address the walls in this whole hallway as part of this “Kitchen Entry” makeover.

Next post:  Day 4

Start at the beginning:  Day 1