Comments on: How to build and attach a cabinet faceframe https://sawdustgirl.com/how-to-build-and-attach-a-cabinet-faceframe/ Renovation, cabinet building and woodworking plans and tutorials. Build like a Girl® Mon, 27 Apr 2020 15:38:53 +0000 hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.1.1 By: Andrew https://sawdustgirl.com/how-to-build-and-attach-a-cabinet-faceframe/#comment-97486 Mon, 14 Oct 2019 22:01:43 +0000 http://sawdustgirl.com/?p=16683#comment-97486 Once you have the face frame cabinets assembled. Assuming all the edges are flush . How do you deal with hinges ? I want to use concealed European soft close but always found I had to double up the stock on the edges to use regular inset hinges. ? The face frame concealed hinges that exist from Blum leave a 1/8” gap on the hinge side. So my question is how do you get your doors flush with concealed hinges ?

]]> By: Sandra https://sawdustgirl.com/how-to-build-and-attach-a-cabinet-faceframe/#comment-88288 Fri, 10 Aug 2018 14:05:34 +0000 http://sawdustgirl.com/?p=16683#comment-88288 In reply to Michael Hua.

I would not attach hinges to the 1/2″ mdf faceframe. Are you doing inset doors? Assuming that a regular thickness faceframe was going to hit the light switch, an overlay door would hit that switch. If doing inset doors, that’s an easy fix. Block out behind the faceframe so the block is flush with the faceframe. Then you can use frameless hinges that you attach to the wall of the cabinet. (You might be able to do that same thing for overlay doors but I’ve never done it…so I’m not sure.)

]]> By: Michael Hua https://sawdustgirl.com/how-to-build-and-attach-a-cabinet-faceframe/#comment-88271 Thu, 09 Aug 2018 14:10:25 +0000 http://sawdustgirl.com/?p=16683#comment-88271 Hi Sandra,
I built my built in wardrobe cabinet face frame out of 1/2″ MDF wood due to the space I had left available before hitting a light switch (the “not perfectly straight walls behind the wardrobe” got me. now I’m struggling to find the right self closing, hidden hinges that I can attach to my 1/2″ MDF frames. Do you know what hinges will work for my issue? Thanks in advance for the help.

]]> By: Mike https://sawdustgirl.com/how-to-build-and-attach-a-cabinet-faceframe/#comment-61870 Tue, 18 Feb 2014 05:36:11 +0000 http://sawdustgirl.com/?p=16683#comment-61870 Long time viewer, first time commenter. Love your site and I’m in the process of doing a master closet built-in. Just curious to know how you would handle face frames for cabinets butted up against each other in a built in. Also, if you attach the face frames to each cabinet individually, I assume the frame and side of the cabinet are flush? You don’t talk about measurements in this post.
Thanks in advance for any help on this.

]]> By: shells https://sawdustgirl.com/how-to-build-and-attach-a-cabinet-faceframe/#comment-52808 Sat, 25 Jan 2014 21:16:32 +0000 http://sawdustgirl.com/?p=16683#comment-52808 In reply to JulieW.

Just chiming in with a thought Julie, Kreg screws are self tapping so that no pre-drilling is required, that’s why they don’t split the wood. If I use Kreg or Spax screws I don’t predrill (regardless if I’m using a kreg jig or not), but if I don’t predrill with regular wood screws they will almost always split the wood. If you don’t have a Kreg screw supplier near-by, Home depot offer free shipping with orders over $45 and I think you can get them on amazon as well.

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